1. Vwaza Marsh, Malawi
We delay stocking up, thinking surely the next market will be better, but each town is the same: A big market with lots of stalls, but only a few occupied, and those only offering a few oranges and sweet potatoes. Eventually we arrive in camp not having bought anything. We resolve to fast and go back to Rumphi before moving on to Nyika Plateau.
The Vwaza game guard comes over to heat our shower water bucket and asks when we’ll be eating. On hearing we won’t be, he brings his own sadsa/phuthu on a tin plate! We have a vacuum-sealed pack of salami so we add that and share the meal. Everybody wins!
We deliver a book on Bruce Lee martial arts to beach guide “Bruce Lee” in the Comores (a gift from a previous guest who heard we were going there). He invites us for supper at his home in the nearby village where his wife cooks for us. A number of small plates with various veges, and one plate with four tiny fishes – which they put on our plates. We say we must share them, but “No. You are our guests!” they insist.
3. Jozini, Zululand
Whenever I visit Tobias he and Thulisiwe treat me to a lovely meal in their home. This time it was curried chicken and phuthu. As always Thulisiwe gave me a bag of her home-grown roasted and salted peanuts to take home.