Marondera – Gosho Park

On South-Eastward to Marondera, which Helen Worswick had told me in 1973 was a beautiful place called Marandellas, which we prompty teasingly dubbed Marandeadloss. We were Rotary exchange students to Oklahoma back then. Well, if Gosho Park is anything to go by, she was right. We loved the two nights we camped there, even when the heavens opened on the second evening and a torrential downpour had us sheltering under the high roof of the educational centre and ablution structure. Luckily Dave’s years of outdoor life experience guiding trips down the Groot Gariep (or Orange) River saw him sensing the impending deluge, and by the time the real downpour started we had already relocated!

That night Esme had her own Night at the Museum experience:

If any of the creatures moved around that night, we didn’t notice it. And I think we’d have heard the giraffe’s neck creaking…

New birds for me at Gosho were the long-desired Southern Hyliota, the very special Collared Flycatcher and the Miombo Tit, plus a perfect view of the White-breasted Cuckooshrike. At night I heard Freckled and Fiery-necked Nightjars, Spotted Eagle, Wood and Barn Owls.

The campsites are set among the big rock outcrops in the woodland. We chose a site nearest the education centre. As the only people there we had use of the teachers facilities, much better than the rustic ones for the kids!

Walking in Gosho Park was a joy, across grasslands, past vleis, through woodland – Miombo woodland, 72 tree species recorded – and past high rocky outcrops. We agreed that if we ever got back to Zim we’d visit Gosho again, and for longer.

Now we’d trek on to Zimbabwe’s famous Eastern Highlands on the Mozambique border, a must-go destination for anyone wanting to see all southern Africa’s birds. I’d long promised myself I’d get there and here it was about to happen!

~~oo0oo~~

Harare

What lovely hospitality we were treated to at Crake Cottage near the Monavale Vlei. Dorothy and John adopted and spoilt us, looking after Jess whenever we were out birding, actually ferrying us to the vlei in John’s red fire engine, and producing a big pot of tea on the wide veranda on our return from trampling around vleis, sewage ponds n parks. We booked for two nights but stayed for four. “We” being Dave, Esme and me – three old birders – and young non-birder Jess, driving around Zimbabwe in a 2012 Toyota RAV 4X4 and a 2008 Ford Ranger 2X4, focused on camping but willing to chalet when wet weather dictated such a copout.

Birding spots we visited around Harare:

Monavale Vlei – A RAMSAR wetland and important source of water around the capital city. Our host Dorothy Wakeling has been actively involved in promoting the need for looking after these special places for many years. We didn’t spot any of the famous crakes and flufftails, the vlei had dried out somewhat already, but firsts for me were the Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Red-faced Cisticola singing – cisticolas have to say who they are for me to ID them – and Variable Sunbird. Our birding guide Jimmy Muropa was great.

Mazowe Botanical Reserve in Christon Bank – About 30km north of town we were taken on a lovely walk in the granite hills by birding guide Abel Nzaka. Here we followed bird parties up and down the hills among the boulders, spotting birds, including including these these that were new to me: Miombo Rock Thrush, Cabanis’ Bunting (seen once before, but in Malawi), Eastern Miombo Sunbird, White-breasted Cuckooshrike and Whyte’s Barbet. We glimpsed, but didn’t nail down, the Boulder Chat.

Haka Park – Just 10km east of Harare city centre, this park is paradise. Grasslands, my favourite biome, and islands of trees and big boulders, flanked by Miombo woodland. The tree islands have perfect shady campsites. Long-tailed Paradise Whydah and Senegal Coucal.

Mukuvisi Woodland – A midday walk around Mukuvisi was not very productive and we ended up looping around (not ‘getting lost!’) longer than we intended. Another special natural area close to the city. If you started earlier on a good day I’m sure it would hum. We did get a picture of a Guineafowl Butterfly.

We left Harare with great memories of good people, delicious shared meals and enjoyable birding. Roads in the city are lousy, but the highways to and from the city were mostly fine, except for detours.

On South-Eastward to Marondera now …

~~oo0oo~~